Tag Archives: China

Discover Oolong Teas

Oolong teas are actually some of the youngest types of tea.  It is believed that the Chinese started to really understand and control oxidation of tea in the 17th century, leading to the first oolong teas.  Given that the first teas in China where documented over 3,000 years earlier, a few hundred years old is still young.  Highly regarded Taiwanese oolongs only began to make an appearance during the 1960’s, when the Taiwanese realized they were losing market share to Chinese and Japanese teas.  Taiwan needed to do something different to distinguish themselves in the marketplace.  Prior to the 1960’s, Taiwan was producing mainly green teas for consumption by the Japanese.

Ti Kuan Yin Dry Leaf and Liquor

Ti Kuan Yin, Balled Style Oolong

What’s in a Name?  Origin of the Oolong Name

The name oolong literally means black dragon, which refers to the shape of the hand rolled oolong tea leaves.  There are other theories that the name originates from the Wuyi Mountains in the Fujian Province of China where it is believed that the first oolong teas where made.  There is an alternative theory that it is named after the man who made the first oolongs, Wu Liang, and was later corrupted to Wu Long before being anglicized into oolong.  No matter where the name came from, this type of tea is worth exploring for every tea drinker.

Oolong Flavors

Ginseng Oolong Dry Leaf and Liquor

Ginseng Oolong, Rolled Oolong with Ginseng and Licorice

As discussed on an earlier post which covered the broader types of teas, oolongs are partially oxidized teas.  They can appear both black and green given their level of oxidation.  Due to the wide range of oxidation, the range of flavors is truly wide and complex.  Some oolongs are now flavored or rolled with ginseng and licorice powder to form small pellets.  Taiwan is continuing to innovate in oolong production by taking the finished product and baking it again to enhance the flavor and aroma.  From teas with a delicate taste of flowers to spicy finishing notes, oolongs provide a nice variety for everyone to enjoy and is a type of tea production that occurs in many countries.  Also, with cold brewing, the complex flavors produced in this manufacturing process can be enjoyed cold.

Oolong Styles and Brewing

Oolong teas usually take on two shapes.  The first is the tightly rolled balls, or balled style, with a stem tail.  While the second is a long curly leaf shape, or open leaf style, which can look like the dragons in Chinese mythology.  To get these shapes, oolong is typically harvested from older leaves on the tea plant, so don’t expect two leaves and bud.  It is more common to find four leaves and a bud or what is sometimes five older leaves.

Oriental Beauty Oolong Wet Leaf Up-Close

Oriental Beauty Open Leaf Style Oolong, Wet Leaf

Given the oxidation level of the oolong, it can be brewed with water ranging from 185-205 degrees Fahrenheit and for anywhere between 3-5 minutes.  Like any good tea, oolong deserves fresh water in the kettle to allow the oxygen in the water to carry out the complex flavors of this tea.  Also, this tea should be steeped multiple times to enjoy the wide array of flavors with each steeping.  So drink this tea when you have time to stop and enjoy the flavors being presented to you.

I like to think there is an oolong tea for everyone, whether you prefer subtle green or forward blacks.  So when you are looking for something new, oolongs are the best place to look and they rarely disappoint.  It’s unfair to pick a favorite oolong because there are so many to enjoy.  Is there one that you are curious about?

Trade as the Mother of Invention

Saint Emilion Grand Cru

Wine from the Saint Emilion region of France.

We are passionate about culture, history, and how many products and values are shaped by the interaction between people around the world.  This includes tea, and how it has shaped and been shaped by history and culture over thousands of years.  We referenced how the notion of terrior relates not only to tea but to wine and other products as well.

On a recent trip to France we were struck by yet another facet of history.  The notion that global trade, and the requirements associated with shipping products around the world have led to many of the great products we have today.  During our tour of wineries with TéléPro Tour in the Saint-Émilion region outside of Bordeaux, our guide noted that while wine has long been traded with England and others.  Over time, innovation led from clay vessels to wooden barrels and at one point someone noticed that the wine shipped from France to England tasted significantly better after shipment.  The difference forever changed wine production as producers determined it was the wine aged in oak during transport that produced exceptional flavors and aromas.  As a side note, the standard 75 ml bottle we see today came from the fact that the 225 liter barrel makes exactly 300 bottles if the barrel is full.

Men working on the Tea Horse Road carrying large bundles of tea.

Tea Porters by Ernest H Wilson, CC BY 2.0

For tea, much like wine, it was the necessities of transportation which led to the development of Pu-erh.  As early as 1600 BCE the road between China and Tibet and other locations was long and arduous, travelling over treacherous, high terrain.  It was used to transport goods for trade including sugar, salt, tea, horses, and of course culture and ideas.  Tea became important to the people of Tibet and similarly horses became important to China for military use.  Thus tea and horses were commonly traded via this road giving us the Tea-Horse Road by which it is known today.  This nearly 1500 mile journey would have taken a very long time to traverse and efficient transport of goods was a must.  So tea leaves began to be packaged into cakes.  This packaging allowed tea to be compressed and stacked for easier transportation by both man and horse.  Like wine, it was discovered that the tea actually had new flavors and aromas after the trip then at the beginning.  It turns out that time in the heat and humidity during the long trip along the tea horse road substantially changed the tea resulting in something like the pu-erh enjoyed today.

Tea bag.

Modern Tea Bag

Like aged tea and wine barrels before it, tea bags were also developed by accident as a result of trade between people separated by distance.  A far more modern development the tea bag was created by Thomas Sullivan of New York.  Upon receiving tea, Mr. Sullivan began to package teas in small silk bags in order to send small samples on to his customers.  Not realizing they should take the tea out of the bags some customers simply immersed in water.  When they reported back to Mr. Sullivan that the silk was a bit to fine, he realized the opportunity, switched to gauze and the tea bag was born.

Yet again, we find ourselves fascinated with tea, how it has been impacted throughout history, and has contributed to global culture.  Are there other analogous inventions you might be aware of, tea or otherwise?

$28,000 per Pound – Dragonwell Tea History

Map showing Zhejiang China where Dragonwell Tea originates.

Zhejiang, China – Home of Dragonwell Tea

Longjing, or Dragonwell Tea, is China’s most famous green tea. This tea is so prized in China that a pre-market release sale of Dragonwell in May of 2012, resulted in 500 grams of the tea selling for 180,000 Yuan or $28,499.  On a per gram basis, it was purchased at a rate higher than gold was trading that day.  On a per cup basis that is $171 per 8 oz of liquor, which is on equivalent to some of the more famous wines.  Tea purchased at this rate usually remains in China and exchanged between business men and politicians as gifts.

The name, Dragonwell, comes from Chinese mythology where a village in China was suffering from a severe drought and was advised to pray to the benevolent dragon who lived in the nearby well to bring rain.  The rain came and the village in appreciation renamed itself and its tea to Dragonwell.  Authentic Dragonwell is produced in Zhejiang providence outside of the fifth largest Chinese city of Hangzhou.  The area is also referred to as Xi Hu or the West Lake region and is home to several UNESCO sites, as well as tea plantations.  Due to the popularity of Dragonwell, the Chinese government expanded the region they claim as home to authentic Dragonwell to all of Zhejiang province.  Originally it was only produced in a 65 square mile area of Xi Hu, made up of four regions – Lion Mountain (Shifeng), the center of the original Dragonwell tea growing area, Mei Jia Wu (Mei family valley), Long Jing and Lin Yin Temple areas.  Given the popularity and relatively high price at sale, there are many counterfeit Dragonwell teas on the market, so knowing how the characteristics of the authentic tea is important.

Photo of Dragonwell Tea, its leaves and liquor.

Dragonwell Tea – Dry Leaf, Infused Leaf, and Liquor

Authentic Dragonwell is harvested by hand and then pan fried to stop the oxidation process.  High quality Dragonwell will be have uniform tight, flat lime to dark green dried leaves.  The steeped leaves will appear plump with a uniform light green color.  Lower quality Dragonwell leaves will turn bluish green to dark green in color after steeping.  The tea liquor should be a bright clear jade yellow.  This tea is best when brewed between 167-176 degrees Fahrenheit.  The North American Tea Championship definition describes the liquor of Dragonwell tea as having a gentle smell of fruitiness with mellow plant notes.  In the mouth, the liquor should have a light-bodied, buttery and smooth feel with slight astringency and hints of peas and sweet-corn with husk and a nutty finish.

I will admit the description above makes me roll my eyes and think how pretentious this sounds.  However, if you are lucky enough to get your hands on an authentic Dragonwell, the description barely does it justice.  It is a truly complex tea with a fabulous flavor worth slowing down to enjoy over multiple steepings.

There are many different types of Dragonwell on the market. Here is a quick list that does not cover all of them, but some of either the more common or special Dragonwell varieties.

Xihu Longjing This just refers to the region where the tea is grown.  This is the traditional region for Dragonwell.
Bird’s Tongue Longjing First growth picked on about March 21 yields a more intense aroma and taste of sweetness than the better known Ming Qian Longjing. Supply is highly dependent on the weather conditions and varies wildly year to year.
Bai Longjing Not a true Longjing but looks like one and is commonly sold as one, it is actually a Bai Pian. It comes from Anji in the Zhejiang Province.
Shi Feng Longjing A type of Xihu Longjing. Fresh tasting, its fragrance is sharp and long lasting. Its leaves are yellowish green in color, and easily imitated with excessive Pan frying of other green teas.
Pre-Qingming Longjing The premium early season first-picking known as Ming Qian or Pre-Qingming.  This tea is harvested before the QingMing Festival, which occurs around the 5th of April each year. The production cycle is very short, usually only ten days before Qingming every year.
Yuqian Longjing This tea is picked after QingMing but before the summer rainy season.  Its name translates to Dragonwell before the rain.
Qiantang Longjing This tea still comes from the Zhejiang province but outside of the Xi Hu district.

Even if you think you are not a green tea fan, Dragonwell tea is worth trying.  What is your favorite Dragonwell memory?

Chinese Tea Culture

In trying to explore the tea cultures of other countries, it is difficult to isolate tea from the rest of the country’s culture.  A beverage, especially one as old as tea, makes its way into everything and its use reflects the overall culture of the country.  As the birthplace of tea, China’s tea culture is rich in ceremony and history.  The drink has been part of Chinese life for over 4,000 years.  It has brought great wealth, supported opium addiction, triggered wars, and became part of everyday life.

Tea in a Porcelain Cup

Tea in a Porcelain Cup (Stilllife) by Flicker User Jos Deilis, CC BY 2.0

A fundamental aspect of Chinese culture is Confucianism.  This is a complex set of beliefs that influence many parts of Chinese culture, the largest being the focus on social harmony brought about through each individual knowing his or her place within society and focusing on doing the best job possible in that place.  Tea plays a role in social harmony.  Every Chinese household has a tea set and tea is routinely offered to guests, family, and friends as a sign of respect and love.  Interestingly, in formal settings, it is always the person in the lower social role that serves the tea to the person of the higher social status, like a child serving tea for a parent.

Since tea is considered one of the seven daily necessities in Chinese culture along with firewood, rice, oil, salt, vinegar and soy sauce, it has created entire industries in China around teaware, teahouses, and various methods of brewing tea.  From glazed porcelain tea cups to terra cotta teapots used only for oolongs, there is a wide variety of wares for brewing and consuming teas.  Many of these are built around either the chaou or gongfu brewing methods.  The chaou brewing method is usually done in a porcelain bowl that allows the drinker to both drink the tea and inspect the tea leaves.  There is no strainer, just a bowl with a lid and saucer.  It may be used with serving cups or by itself and is considered an informal way of drinking tea.  It is said that this method was devised as a way for faster tasting by the tea merchants of tea they were considering purchasing.  The gongfu brewing method is more formal and uses a smaller terra cotta tea pot to do multiple steepings of a single tea.  The teapots usually only hold between 100-150 mL or 4-5 oz. The gongfu method varies across regions of China and may also include the use of other instruments like tweezers and various strainers.  Teahouses are everywhere in China and are social gathering places for the exchange of ideas.  Unlike Americans, who either take their coffee to go or bury their head in their laptops at the coffee shops, these teahouses are built around staying to talk and to share a pot of tea prepared by the hostess.

Tea Shop

Back of Tea Shop, Zhuhai Guangdong, China, By logatfer, Flickr, CC BY SA-2.0

Tea also plays a large role in Chinese weddings.  During a wedding, the bride and groom will serve tea to their parents as a sign of respect and thanks.  If the couple wishes, they may do a full tea ceremony which includes serving tea to the rest of the family after serving it to their parents.  Often this could include serving tea to hundreds of people as Chinese extended families are often quite large and all are invited to the wedding.  This full ceremony allows the couple to meet each other’s extended family members that they may not have met while dating.

The idea that an everyday drink can also be given prominence in a special event shows the integration to tea into the lives of the Chinese at all levels and helps to explain why most of their tea does not leave the country.  I don’t believe America has anything like this within our own culture, but given that American culture is centered on the individual instead of the collective society it shouldn’t be a surprise.  Wouldn’t it be nice if we slowed down a bit to enjoy each other’s company over a pot of tea?

Let us know what you think, follow us on Twitter @DominionTea, or like us on Facebook.

Hillary

American Tea History

Tea traveled to America with the colonists who arrived from all European countries, with some colonies like New Amsterdam (modern day New York) being heavier tea drinkers than all of England at the time (Smith & Kraig, 2013).  The British implemented a mercantile system, as with its other colonies, which focused on trade to increase its wealth.  With this system London based businesses were protected through the use of trade barriers, regulations, and subsidies but it also required the British government to fight smuggling and illegal trading with other countries, especially by American merchants.

Early American Tea Experience

American Tea consumption is tied tightly to the early ship building in the colonies.  Massachusetts and Pennsylvania were both major ship building colonies, where craftsman took advantage of the abundance of local resources, craftsman, and cheap labor to build more and faster clipper ships than the British.  Many of these clipper ships were put into use by the American merchants to trade directly with other countries, bypassing the British government.  Smuggling was extremely common in the American colonies and tea was high on the list of illegal goods.

American Tea drinkers are less familiar with asian teapots and accessories.

Small Yixing Teapot

The colonists adopted many of the British customs like tea drinking both at home and in public coffeehouses (Yes, coffeehouses did exist 300 years before Starbucks).  It should be noted that much of the tea consumed in the colonies and Britain was green tea (Smith & Kraig, 2013).  The social demand for tea, and the additional taxes levied on tea from the British East India Company made smuggled tea a very common commodity in the colonies, most coming from the Dutch East India Company.    The loss of revenue by the British East India Company did not go unnoticed and in 1767 the tea tax was levied.  This tax became one of many levied on the colonists in the ten years leading to the Boston Tea Party and the American Revolution.  As Joseph M. Walsh noted in 1892, “The birth of the greatest nation of all time due to a three-penny tax on tea!”    (Walsh, 1892)

After the revolution, American merchants used their clipper ships to go direct to China for trade, bringing tea and other goods legally into the United States without British involvement.  These merchants became the first of the American millionaires, with tea being a dominant contributor to their wealth.  This wealth was later used to give loans to the fledgling American government to purchase arms for the War of 1812 other ventures necessary to stabilize and expand the country.

American Industry and Tea

Tea consumption thrived in the United States through the 1800’s with farmers experimenting with growing tea plants in the country.  The US Department of Agriculture even published a study about using tea as a commercial crop in 1897.  There is still a commercial tea plantation in South Carolina, new tea farms in Hawaii, and the US League of Tea Growers working to increase the growth of tea in America.

It was in the early 1900’s that America made perhaps its largest contribution to modern tea culture, first through the large scale introduction of iced tea and then through the invention of the tea bag.  While iced tea has been documented in American cookbooks dating back to 1870’s, it was at the World’s Fair in 1904 that iced tea was introduced in a big way to the public.  With the warmer US climates, iced tea still remains the most consumed tea in the US.  The second was the accidental invention of the tea bag by an American, Thomas Sullivan, who sent small samples of his tea in silk bags to his clients in 1908.  Those clients went on to ask Thomas to send their tea in bags going forward and since silk was expensive he created his bags out of paper.

American Tea drinkers love beautiful European inspired teapots.

Antique Teapot

American Tea Consumption and World Wars

American tea consumption saw significant declines around World War I (1914-1919) and then again around World War II (1939-1945) because of significant disruption in trade with China and Japan..  Trade with China did not resume after WWII until 1971.  As green tea was produced predominantly in China and Japan, this left black tea from India to satisfy the US market.  Current tea consumption in the United States is 85% iced tea and still overwhelmingly black.

As loose leaf tea becomes easier for the US consumer to get and consumer awareness of options increases, the growth in the specialty loose leaf market will mirror that of coffee and wine bringing a large variety of tea to market.  I am looking forward to having more options in the high quality tea market, are you?

Hillary

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Works Cited

Smith, A., & Kraig, B. (2013). The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America, Volume 1. Oxford: Oxford University Press.

Walsh, J. M. (1892). Tea – Its History and Mystery. Philadelphia: Henry T. Coates & Co.